After prepping the skin and applying a base, usually, the next step of the Make Up Application is to apply eyeshadow, liner, and mascara in order to enhance the eyes! Before you start applying any kind of shadow, it is recommended to work out the shape of the eyes, and the colours that would best suit your sitters complexion.
There are many different eye shapes, and according to the eye shape, there are different techniques of
applying shadow and liner to enhance the eyes in the the best way possible. These here are the various different eye shapes that your client may have, as a Make Up Artist, it is useful to have an idea of these so you can achieve a flattering look. During Sue's demonstration she just did a very simple eye look using three colours to define the eye.
Defining the Eyes:
1. Make sure the eye area is well powdered, if you are a beginner, you can also place a good amount of translucent powder under the eye to catch any fall out, this can be easily wiped away after the eyes are finished. Determine the three colours you are going to use, it is best to choose a lighter colour, and two darker colours.
2. Take a short, flat brush (illamasqua's eye shadow brush is perfect!) and sweep the lightest colour all over the eyelid, right up to the brow bone. After this, take your second darkest colour and take this through the crease/ socket of the eye, with soft sweeping motions, backwards and forwards...almost like a windscreen wiper! If you need more control with this step, take a small cotton pad/ sponge and gently hold the side of the face, this only gets ride of the fine lines on your eyelid, making the application of shadow much easier.
3. The last step of applying shadow, is to take your darkest colour and add this to the outside corner of the eye, to really give the eye that extra bit of depth and definition, a small pencil brush would be suitable for this step. The key is to really blend your colours together, as this will give a seamless effect. You can also take a mixture of your two darkest colours and apply these to the bottom lash line for a softer look.
4. After applying shadow, the next step is to apply liner. Gel liner, especially the Bobbi Brown's Long Wear Gel Liner is a great option as it is extremely long lasting and amazing for creating a precise line or a smudged out effect. Taking a small amount of liner and an angled brush, apply this to the top lash line, remembering that there is a different way of applying liner for each eye shape! If you didn't want to apply shadow to the bottom lash line, you could apply some gel liner.
5. To frame the face, you may also want to fill in the brows. First, brush through the brows, you can just use a small brush or you can also use a clear brow gel that will help set the eyebrows into the desired shape. Take a powder that is best matched to your sitters hair colour, taking a small angled brush, feather the powder through the brows, following the natural shape.
6. To complete the eyes, apply some mascara. Before applying your mascara, it is important to curl your clients lashes. Take a disposable mascara wand, and your chosen mascara, starting right at the root of the lashes, apply your mascara in upward motions for an even coverage.
Defining the Eyes:
1. Make sure the eye area is well powdered, if you are a beginner, you can also place a good amount of translucent powder under the eye to catch any fall out, this can be easily wiped away after the eyes are finished. Determine the three colours you are going to use, it is best to choose a lighter colour, and two darker colours.
2. Take a short, flat brush (illamasqua's eye shadow brush is perfect!) and sweep the lightest colour all over the eyelid, right up to the brow bone. After this, take your second darkest colour and take this through the crease/ socket of the eye, with soft sweeping motions, backwards and forwards...almost like a windscreen wiper! If you need more control with this step, take a small cotton pad/ sponge and gently hold the side of the face, this only gets ride of the fine lines on your eyelid, making the application of shadow much easier.
3. The last step of applying shadow, is to take your darkest colour and add this to the outside corner of the eye, to really give the eye that extra bit of depth and definition, a small pencil brush would be suitable for this step. The key is to really blend your colours together, as this will give a seamless effect. You can also take a mixture of your two darkest colours and apply these to the bottom lash line for a softer look.
4. After applying shadow, the next step is to apply liner. Gel liner, especially the Bobbi Brown's Long Wear Gel Liner is a great option as it is extremely long lasting and amazing for creating a precise line or a smudged out effect. Taking a small amount of liner and an angled brush, apply this to the top lash line, remembering that there is a different way of applying liner for each eye shape! If you didn't want to apply shadow to the bottom lash line, you could apply some gel liner.
5. To frame the face, you may also want to fill in the brows. First, brush through the brows, you can just use a small brush or you can also use a clear brow gel that will help set the eyebrows into the desired shape. Take a powder that is best matched to your sitters hair colour, taking a small angled brush, feather the powder through the brows, following the natural shape.
6. To complete the eyes, apply some mascara. Before applying your mascara, it is important to curl your clients lashes. Take a disposable mascara wand, and your chosen mascara, starting right at the root of the lashes, apply your mascara in upward motions for an even coverage.
Applying Lipstick:
1. Prep, prep, prep! To achieve the perfect application of lipstick, it is all about preparing the lips for a soft, smooth, crack free base. Before the day of application, you could ask your client to exfoliate their lips with a dry toothbrush, or a lip scrub. Before applying lipstick on the day, apply a lip balm, Carmex is great, but Elizabeth Arden's Eight Hour Cream is amazing for intensively moisturising the lips.
2. Choose a colour that will compliment the eyes, then taking a lip brush, apply evenly over the lips, making sure you take the colour right to the corners. Using a small angled brush is great for really defining the cupids bow and getting a clean, precise shape.
3. Don't be afraid to mix colours to create your perfect shade, or use two colours to create an ombre effect!
4. Finally, you can apply gloss if necessary, this will make the lips look plumper. However, you can leave the lips as they are for a matte effect.
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