During our Make Up Practicals last week, we learnt all about contouring and highlighting and how these steps help to enhance the natural structure of our faces. So... in our Make Up Seminar this week, Lara showed us a different spin on the usual method, using lots of crazy colours! To establish what colours went well together, and what colour would be best to use for the contouring stages and the highlighting stages, we used our colours wheels. As a Make Up Artist, a colour wheel is a great tool, you don't want to be using the wrong colours together or using a colour that doesn't match your sitters skin tone, do you?!
To give us an idea of how Colour Contouring works, Lara did a demonstration, I volunteered to be her model, so here's a photo of the final look! Lara used purple and yellow shades for her demonstration, using the darker colour of purple to contour and the yellow to highlight. Lara also used some paints to add some abstract lines and shapes to emphasise which places were contoured and where was highlighted.
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After the demo, we had a go at Colour Contouring ourselves, it was a really fun and interesting way to practise our contouring skills in a different and unusual way!
These are the two looks I created, you first apply a base as normal (see my "Make Up Practical Week 2- Applying a Base" post), you then follow the basic steps of a normal contour and highlight routine when using colour, just applying them a little more heavily and in ANY place natural light would hit ...however with colour, don't be afraid to experiment, use stronger colours and apply them heavier, use glitter, inks...be creative!
For my first look I decided on using pink and green, pink being the lightest colour, I used this to highlight. Starting with the highlight first, I bought the pink shade through the centre of the forehead, down the centre of the nose (remember, the thinner the highlight line down the nose, the thinner the nose will appear), on the cupids bow and a little touch of pink on the chin. For this I used Illasmasqua's highlighting brush, which is a perfect size for precise application to these bigger areas of the face.
I also highlighted under the eyes, almost like you would with concealer, just really exaggerating the area of which is highlighted, I took my under-eye highlight right down to the bottom of the cheekbones. I also highlighted the inner corners for a more wide eyed look, as well as the centre of the lid and the arch of the brow, to pull the bone structure up. Illamasqua's blending brush is a really good choice for highlighting these areas.
Next I went onto contouring Bryony's face, I used green as my darker contour colour, as it is complementary to pink. I first contoured around the temples of the face and under the cheekbones to bring out the bone structure of the face...don't be afraid to go a little bit heavier with your contour here to really help your sitters face shape 'pop'. Also contour around the jawline, and down the sides of the nose, this will help the nose to look even thinner and more defined.
To contour the eyes, I took the green through the socket, and lined the outside of the bottom lashline to give the eyes some definition. You could also add some contour to the outside of the lips, just always remember wherever you place a dark colour, add some light.
The last step of creating my look was to add some inks to emphasise the contouring process, I added some abstract lines along the temples and through the cheekbones to exaggerate the contour. I used a green ink, the same colour that I used to contour with. I also added some white to the face, this creates a tint, I added these lined where I wanted a little bit of character to the look.
Here is another look I created during the workshop, I followed the same process, just using different colours!
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